Uttarakhand's 250 Wildlife Species and The Himalayan Monals of Chopta

The Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand denotes mainly the westernmost region of the state of Uttarakhand. In ancient times, this rugged mountain region was home to many forts or ‘garhs’ which were then conquered and united to create the Kingdom of Garhwal. Apart from a rich history, this region is also home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, and some of the most famous birdwatching destinations of Uttarakhand. Nestled amidst the Himalayas and the Shivaliks, and Rivers Ganges and Yamuna, Dehradun is one of the most popular hill stations in the country. Apart from being home to many tourist attractions, the Doon Valley is also a great birding destination, acting as a gateway to the rest of the Garhwal region, with species like Grey-headed and Scaly-bellied Woodpeckers, Crimson Sunbird, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Cinereous Vulture, and more. 

Chopta, in the Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary, provides some excellent winter and spring birding, and fantastic landscapes. A variety of montane habitats, from pine forests to alpine meadows, results in a rich diversity of birds. It is famous among photographers and birders for being the best and most easily accessible place in India to see the Himalayan Monal, as well as other pheasants, woodpeckers, laughing thrushes, rosefinches, and more. That alone would be worth the long drive, but the area has much more to offer.

Named after C. Rajagopalachari, a prominent figure in India’s freedom struggle, Rajaji National Park is mostly made up of dense broadleaved deciduous jungles, and wetland and grassland patches. This variation in habitat accounts for the rich diversity and wide variety of flora and fauna of Rajaji. Apart from big cats (Tiger and Leopard), this tiger reserve is best known for its elephant population.

My Garhwali wildlife holiday

Having explored the birdwatching and wildlife destinations of Kumaon the previous year, it was only logical that my next Himalayan destination should be the other region of Uttarakhand known as Garhwal. As usual, my tour operator helped me in planning the perfect week-long wildlife getaway.

My first destination on this tour of the Himalayan foothills was the picturesque Doon Valley, home to the hill station of Dehradun, the capital of Uttarakhand. Dehradun is one of the most popular hill stations in the country and acts as a birding gateway to the rest of Garhwal. My main target here was the somewhat boring-looking Nepal Cupwing, a bird that was once thought to be endemic to Nepal until it was found in the ground of Walterre Resort in Mussoorie, where I was lucky enough to be staying. Needless to say, my luck coupled with the skill of the birding guide was such that I got great views of this beauty.

The gardens of Walterre were also a great place for Crimson Sunbird, and I managed to get some amazing sightings and decent photos of it, as well as several Phylloscopus warblers, woodpeckers, and a few babblers too.

Leaving Dehradun on the third day of my trip, I headed to Chopta, a region that has gained fame among birdwatchers and photographers over the last couple of years. After checking in at the camp and a cup of hot chai and a plate of pakoras (my mountain favorite), I did a little time pass birding in and around the campgrounds. Although I could probably spend a week or even a month birding in Chopta alone, two days would have to suffice.

My first day of birdwatching in Chopta was spent with a day-long session around Tungnath. This temple is the highest Shiva Temple and looks absolutely stunning against the mountain backdrop. Not only was I able to get Lord Shiva’s blessings for my further adventures, but the trek itself was very rewarding. The fresh mountain air does indeed have a sense of piety and purity to it. 

For birders, this trek can be rewarding too. I managed to see Snow Partridge, Red-billed Chough, and two lifers: Red-fronted Rosefinch and, of course, my main target - Himalayan Monal. Needless to say, by the time I returned to the camp, I was a happy birder indeed!

My second day in Chopta was spent visiting several sites looking for my targets. I got better sightings (and better photographs) of Himalayan Monal, as well as Kalij and Koklass Pheasants, and even a shy and elusive Scaly-breasted Cupwing. The larger streams were perfect places to find Brown Dipper, and the list of warblers, laughing thrushes, and woodpeckers was endless! Boy, was I happy to have come here!

Of course, after coming so far it didn’t make sense not to experience the culture here. So it was that on my third and final day in Chopta, I kept my binoculars and field guide aside and took a guided walk through a local village. The everyday rural Garhwali way of life is fascinating. From harvesting in fields and fruit orchards to the beautiful temples here, I was lucky to experience such a rich dose of culture in one short day.

After three glorious days in Chopta, it was time to descend down to Rajaji National Park, a beautiful tiger reserve and wildlife sanctuary near Dehradun and Mussoorie. Although I didn't get to see any tigers, I did manage to spot a leopard and several jackals. I also got to see a small herd of elephants, my favorite animals. Their grace, despite their massive size, never ceases to amaze me, and I will easily say that they beat the big cats in my list of favorite mammals!

After a lovely week with birds, elephants, and general stress-free leisure, it was sadly time to get back to Delhi before I had to fend off several angry calls from both home and office. Of course, all along the journey back I was mentally planning a return to Garhwal, maybe for a longer trip.

 

Please Note, the Acronyms in Bird Species
R stands for Resident Birds
S stands for Summer
W stands for Winter